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Kyushu · Beppu, Chojabaru and the Aso region · Itinerary: 1–2 October
If I initially associated Japan mainly with cities, temples and an extraordinary ability to live together in an orderly way, the landscape has now lodged an objection. An impressive one. On Kyushu, steaming earth, wide grasslands and mountains enter the picture. Apparently our travelling companions are not the only ones with temperament.
Japan is bubbling beneath the surface too
After Yamaguchi, the guidebook takes the route across the strait to Kyushu and the Beppu area. Our photographs show Anneliese at the thermal springs and the group stopping at Chojabaru. Aso follows. In the itinerary, these stages belong to days six and seven. The guiding thread becomes green slopes and rather a lot of steam.
A volcano does not need to become a metaphor for one’s life. It is interesting enough already. But a little comparison suggests itself: on the BMW sits an older gentleman with a surprising amount of enthusiasm for movement. Beside him, a landscape that has certainly not decided to spend the rest of its days lying still.

A short clip, a very wide view
In our little video, Anneliese and I stand before Aso’s broad green landscape. Hills, grassland, clouds — and two heads in the foreground that naturally wanted to be in the picture too. You travel halfway round the world and discover that your own hairstyle still comes along reliably.
For me, the finest thing is the sense of space. I never thought Japan could gather so many different landscapes along its island chain. After Osaka’s market lanes, this area looks as though someone has replaced the entire backdrop of our film. Only the cast remains the same.
A paradise with bends
The quiet roads, mountains and open views make this journey a paradise for motorcyclists. Our guide has his warm laugh, Mr. L his preferred position in the convoy, and I my delight in the BMW. The landscape makes sure we have things to discuss even without studying one another’s characters.
The guidebook continues towards Kumamoto and then Fukuoka. For this chapter, Aso is enough: an area that makes a very convincing case for how much Japan offers beyond its big cities. I am 76. Fortunately, my curiosity shows no sign of retiring.
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