Japan Diary 23: Another World – and an Honest Look Back

by KURT GASSNER

Deutsch · English

15 October 2026 · Kyoto · Evening

This evening brought traditional geisha dancing with music, followed by an Italian dinner as the perfect finish to the day. The Hyatt Regency really is another world. After so many days on the motorcycle, this change feels very welcome.

Anneliese and Kurt at the geisha evening in Kyoto.
Anneliese and me at the geisha evening at the Hyatt Regency.
A short moving glimpse of the traditional dance.

A farewell that came easily

We said goodbye to the Tower Hotel this morning without much regret. Its name had reminded us of the Tower of London – and of its long history as a prison. Perhaps a rather unkind association. But the hotel really was a disappointment for us.

Yesterday’s final evening of the motorcycle tour could have been better, too. It was an outdoor barbecue on the rooftop terrace: smoky, noisy and a little chaotic. A pity for our last evening together. The friendships and encounters remain precious; to my mind, the setting did not do them justice.

The whole world’s variety in a chain of islands

When I sum up our motorcycle journey, this is the image that comes to mind: the whole world’s variety in a chain of islands. Mountains and ridges, forests, sea bays, desert landscapes and sand dunes. Breathtaking.

Wonderful roads, so many tunnels and constantly changing views. Tradition alongside the avant-garde. Japan has shown us a diversity that is hard to contain in a single memory of a journey.

Kurt in a souvenir photograph at the geisha evening.
A memory of this evening in Kyoto.

Two guides who did almost superhuman work

Victor and Taka did almost superhuman work on this trip, and I want to thank them explicitly. For a group of this size, though, I believe another guide was needed. Two people working so hard to keep everything going cannot replace adequate staffing.

The shortcomings belong in the account, too

At lunchtime, we almost always ended up at impersonal roadside service stations. Nothing had been reserved. In my experience, stops were almost always made for practical reasons and were rarely chosen with the care I would have hoped for on a journey like this.

And two of the hotels were a real letdown for us. Unfortunately, the Tower Hotel in Kyoto at the end was one of them. That is a shame, especially as a journey’s final impression tends to linger.

What remains is an extraordinary journey through a breathtaking country. For me, an honest memory includes both the wonder and the things that could have been better. Now Anneliese and I are enjoying Kyoto at our own pace. Tonight, with dancing, music and a wonderful dinner.

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