Japan Diary 31: Kanazawa – Samurai, Sweets and a Moment of Stillness

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20 October 2026 · Kanazawa

After yesterday’s long excursion, Anneliese and I wanted to take things a little more slowly in Kanazawa today. And it turned into a wonderful last day in this beautiful city.

In the historic samurai district, we visited a former samurai residence. What made it particularly special was meeting a lady who welcomed us as a descendant of the family. Suddenly, history has a face. You look at the old keepsakes and hear about people whose story lives on here to this day.

Our host at the samurai residence.
Our host at the samurai residence.
A magnificent samurai helmet.
A magnificent samurai helmet.
An insight into the family’s history.
An insight into the family’s history.
Keepsakes on display.
Keepsakes on display.
Historical pictures and information inside the house.
Historical pictures and information inside the house.

A magnificent samurai helmet recalled the martial past. Outside lay a garden of lush greenery, stones and water. We stopped, looked around and took our time.

Beside the garden.
Beside the garden.
Greenery, stones and water in the garden.
Greenery, stones and water in the garden.
A garden full of small details.
A garden full of small details.
A moment in the garden.
Water and stone lanterns in the garden.

Afterwards, we wandered through the neighbourhood. Old walls, wooden gates and, every so often, a glimpse into a garden. Along the way, we tried some Japanese sweets: small, carefully arranged bites with different toppings. It is often these unassuming little breaks that make a day of travelling especially lovely.

An entrance in the historic neighbourhood.
An entrance in the historic neighbourhood.
An old gate along our walk.
An old gate along our walk.
Japanese sweets with a variety of toppings.
Japanese sweets with a variety of toppings.

Then we went to the D. T. Suzuki Museum. Suzuki—the name first brings cars to mind. Here, though, it is about a philosopher and Zen.

The architecture alone changes your pace. Clean lines, understated spaces, light and water. Small circles appeared on the surface of the water. We sat down, meditated and enjoyed the quiet. After all the impressions of the past few weeks, it felt good simply to stay seated for a while, without already thinking about the next stop.

Light and clean lines at the D. T. Suzuki Museum.
Light and clean lines at the D. T. Suzuki Museum.
A quiet moment looking out over the water.
A quiet moment looking out over the water.
Understated architecture at the museum.
Understated architecture at the museum.
Small circles on the surface of the water.
Small circles on the surface of the water.
Anneliese beside the water at the Suzuki Museum.
Anneliese beside the water at the Suzuki Museum.

The subsequent outing to an Italian restaurant was less successful. A much too lengthy taxi ride took us through grey suburbs. The journey had not been worth it for the lovely meal in a special setting we had hoped for. Such detours are apparently part of travelling, too—although we could happily have done without this one.

A glimpse inside the restaurant.
A glimpse inside the restaurant.

With the rain, the afternoon became a quiet one. Back at the Hyatt Centric, we read and let the day wind down.

Out and about in rainy Kanazawa.
Out and about in rainy Kanazawa.

Now, one last beer to say goodbye. Tomorrow, we move on.

I will remember Kanazawa for its gardens, its old houses and that special encounter in the samurai district. And for a quiet moment by the water that, fortunately, we made time for today.

Tomorrow: Tokyo. Hauling suitcases, changing levels, finding the right train to Hakone. The two of us in the middle of the crowds—and Anneliese, who would happily skip this particular adventure. Which will last longer: our time buffer or our nerves? Tomorrow, we’ll find out.


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